Ocebreiro to Triacastela

21km today.    When we started out it was dark, there was  driving wind and rain but we were comfortable enough in our ponchos.  It lightened up and the rain stopped.  It turned into quite a nice day.  We had one very steep climb that was very muddy and slippery.  The scenery today was lovely once again.  Mostly farming and lots of cows.  We had a herd of cows coming towards us on a country lane with no escape at one stage and that was quite scary.  They all had horns even though they were cows.  I wonder if that is where the idea of running from the bulls comes from.
We have seen lots of chestnut trees over the last couple of days but they aren't ready yet.
We came into Triacastela after a long 8km steep descent and we were very grateful to find our accomodation.
134km to Santiago but whos counting?

Villafranca to Ocebreiro

30km + again today but a totally different experience than yesterday.
It started out a bit rainy but more drizzle than anything.  It eventually stopped but we couldn't trust the weather enough to really pack the rain gear away.
We knuckled down and got on with it today.  We chose the option that had the least climbs and it followed a  flowing river and went through some nice villages.
We missed a turn so we did some extra kms.  Eventually we joined a muddy slippery path.
Today was the steepest climb of the whole journey and we climbed for almost 10km, it was muddy and slippery but it was great to get the top and saw this fantastic village and found our accomodation.  We are staying in a really old building and our room is so funny.  We have to keep ducking our heads under ancient beams.
We are now in Galicia which is notoriously wet so we had better get used to it.
7 walking days and 155km to Santiago...

Molinasec to Villafranca

Another 30 km day.  It was wet and long and seemed to go on forever.  Fuzz shins held up today but only just and I have been plagued with a sciatic problem for a few days so we are feeling the effects of 25 days back to back of walking (one day off in there ). 
We walked through suburbs and along some roads and eventually had  a climb and steep descent into Villafranca which is a lovely town.
I am glad today is over.
Ps.  Check out the local Ford dealership.....it was the only funny moment of the day.

Rabanel to Molinaseca

What an amazing day.  The scenery was somthing else.  We started out and it was very windy, almost enough to blow you off your feet some times.  We really are in the mountains now.  The wind howled up the valleys and the noise was incredible at times.
We got to the highestpoint in our whole journey today.
We eventually came to La Cruz de Ferro where there is a cross and a mound of stones.  It has become a tradition for people to leave a stone under that cross and there is quite a mound now so it has been going on for some time.  We left our stones and continued into the wind looking at the incredible scenery before the rain made us don our ponchos.  It was fantastic walking along in the wind and rain with the scenery unfolding before us, wrapped in the safety of our water proof cacoons.  I absolutely loved it.  We didn't make great time over the  26km as we had so many photo opportunites.
Tomorrow is going to be wet too.

Astorga to Rabanal

Only 22km today a bit of a treat after yesterday.
Fuzz was back on board today which was great and he took it very cautiously as he wanted to see how his leg was.  So far so good so he will be back out there with me tomorrow. 
It was mostly flat and easy under foot today and a shift in scenery that is very welcome.  We can see the small mountains ahead of us that will  turn into larger ones that we must cross in the next few days.  There was forest for some of the way and we could always see some sort of greenery wnich is so welcome after the hay desert of days gone by.
This is quite a small village and we have found a nice little hotel.  Not a patch on last nights accomodation with regard to appointments but we will see how the food stacks up as last yesterdays lunch and dinner was fabulous.  I am constantly hungry and thinking about food!!!

Mazarife to Astorga

About 32km today.  The first half was quite easy but the second half was tough.  Hills and rough under foot.  There was a breeze that was lovely and not always sunny.  Nothing of real note for the scenery but we did pass over the oldest bridge in Spain. 
Fuzz was at our hotel to greet me which was lovely so I didn't have the accomodation anxiety that everyone seems to get just before arriving in each town.  Everything went smoothly.
Astorga is a town I would like to spend more time in.  I got here too late and too tired to see anything much.  That and the fact that everything is shut during siesta which is usually when I want to see things.
The catherdral looks amazing and so does Gaudi's castle.  There is also the ruin of a  Roman house but unfortunately those places will have to wait until next time.

Special baby news moment

Leon to Mazarife

About 22km today.  I started out on my own after Fuzz waved me off from the Parador Hotel as he is having shin problems.  So I was happily going along by myself and  watching very closly for the markers today as there were two ways to go and I had arranged to meet Fuzz at a specific place so the wrong decision at the option could have been a bit of a disaster because it would have been difficult to get to the other place.  So at the junction where both routes converged I wasn't sure (things are not always that clear here).  So much head scratching and everyone that went past either didn't speak English or didn't care what route they were on.  Well I looked up and  this nice young Irish guy from Vancuver who we have seen on and off since day one happened along and he was on the same path as me today so we worked out what was the correct path to take and off we took.  We were making great time and after the junction it really was a lovely walk.  My phone rang and I thought it would be Fuzz telling me how he was getting on and I saw that it was Glen.  He told me that he and Mels son had just been born.  Niel very quickly worked out that this was a special moment for me and took a photo while I was on the phone, he was then very patient as I  blubbered on for a while.  I finallly found Fuzz and gave him the news and of course he was as excited as me.  It was lovely that Niel (who isn't staying in the same place as us) sought us out later to congratulate Fuzz.  The first town after my big news we stopped for a little break and I decided to have a drink to wet the baby's head.  We were joined by another lady Caroline from Australia who was equally excited and joinded us in the celebration.  That is the spirit of the Camino. 
I will post the special photo whenI get it.

Leon

Well, we have had a lovely time resting here at the Parador Hotel.  It is a beautiful building with an interesting past.  It has been  a Monastory, school, hospital, military barracks, prison, horse stables (not necessarily in that order) as well as our hidey hole for two nights.  And now we have to leave and start walking again.  Poor Fuzz is having problems with his shins so I am hoping today that we go through a town big enough to have a pharmacy or something.  I have run out of ideas to help him.
We have enjoyed being in Leon, although we didn't do much sight seeing we did visit the cathedral which has spectacular stained glass windows which my photos don't do justice.
We have decided to take the scenic route today.  It is slightly longer but the alternative mostly follows the road so we will cover about 22km to Villar de Mazarife.
The photos are of the cathedral and the Parador.

Mansilla to Leon

About 20k today.  Hardly a hay field in sight.  A couple of hills today which is a bit of a shock to the system after all the past days of being on the flat.  We could see the mountains off in the distance to our right but no real scenery to mention.
We got to leon and finally to to our accomodation.  We are staying at the Parador Hotel.  We are spoiling ourselves for two nights here after 20 days of walking we are due a rest and a treat.  The parador really is a treat and very luxurious especially after the last 20 days.  The hotel was built in the 16th century and is very beautiful.  The photos don't do it justice.  There is a museum here as well so we will be busy looking around here as well as the town for the next couple of days.

Ps photo date time

Not sure if any one has noticed that that date and time on our photos is in correct.  The camera is set in Oz time.  It will probably stay thay way.

Hermanillos Mansilla

25km no stops.  No where to stop if we wanted too anyway.  The route we took was 25km without a single village or anything along the way.  It was the original Roman route and they have some Roman way roads roped off.  We also saw some very ancient way markers which would not have been seen on the other route I don't think.  Still so much hay.  I am amazed that we have walked for days on the flat and it is all hay.  We finally came to a down hill and as we rounded the corner we saw not only our village in the distance but a view of the Pyrennes which are now only a  memory of days past.
The last 10 km to  Mansilla went on forever.  I have found that the last 3 to 5 km of each day go on forever whether we are walking 25, 30 or 15 km. 
I am feeling that this journey far surpasses anything else I have ever done physically and mentally.

Moratinos to Harmadillos

Short story is....got lost ...got on track and saw more hay fields and more hay fields.  How much hay really is needed in the world? 
Anyway we had very nice accomodation and some of the best food I have had. 
We did however go past the half way point today (depending on who's book you are reading) and that is the only photo I am posting today.

Random shots from today

Carrion de los Condes to Moratinos

We got an early start today and really marched the first 17km when it was quite cool.  There wasn't much to see except more hay fields and it was another flat day.  There was no where to stop for the first 17km anyway.  We had a coffee and off we went for the last 13km.  Still not much to see.  We finally found what we thought was our accomodation but we were told that  we weren't expected there.  Hmm, long moments of panic followed because there was only one other place in town and if that wasn't where we were supposed to be we were in trouble because it would have ment walking 3km back or another 13km on.  3 km doesn't sound far but after today it would have been a marathon.  It all ended well as you can see from the photos.  We love this place and the owner is Italian and  comes from very close to Fuzz's family.  Small world.
We have now passed the halfway mark on our 17th day of walking.  Another Wow moment.....but 400km to go.

Fromister th Carrion de los Condes

20.5 km today flat and easy under foot.  There was an option to take a shady path along the river for part of the way today and we went that way.  Once we were off that path we were back to endless hay fields and it was very flat.  The colour of the hay fields and the sky are amazing together and after a while it almost hurts your eyes.
We finally made it to  Carrion de los Condes.  A large town by comparison to quite a few we have stayed in lately with a population of 2300.  There seems to be a couple of town squares with side streets winding off them.  We found our accomodation without too much trouble and got organized before heading out to explore the  town and work out where we were going to eat.  We are leading a very simple life at the moment.
There is a church off what I think is the main square and we went in for a look.  Soon some nuns came in and started their prayers.  One of them sung and played an intrument that I couldn't see but it all sounded lovely so we stayed there for a little while before heading back to the square for more exploration.
We sat down for a drink and a man from Iceland came and joined us and we had dinner with him.  Each day we meet new people from different places all with a story to tell.
Tomorrow is another big day 30km.  We are getting back off the guide book again.
Todays photo says 463 km to Santiago but that must be by road.  The guide book says we have 414km to go and a sign in town said 404km.  Who knows?  We will just have to keep going until we get there.

Pictures from near Castrojeriz from yesterday

Random photos I couldn't put on yesterday.

Itero de la Vega to Formista

We only walked 15km today.  We slept in and gave ourselves an easy day. 
The last 6km of our walk today was beside a canal.  Very pretty, shady and easy under foot.  Just what Fuzz needed as he has suffered very sore feet for a few days now.  We may have that sorted out now we hope so fingers crossed.
We arrived in Fromister and got settled at a very nice hostal.  We wandered around the town and found a nice restaurant and had a fantastic lunch.  Finaly had some food made with love.  We won't need much for dinner that's for sure.
We have walked for 15 days now and covered 370km.  Almost half way.

Hontanas to Itero de la Vega

Oh, last night was interesting.  There were 21 of us in one room on bunk beds.  We were so tired and grateful to have a bed we didn't care.  We had  a lovely pilgrim menu with loads of other people.  We were on the first sitting and had a great night.  So it came time for bed.   We  had the snorer from hell who ended up having a dreadful nightmere.  He was screaming and finally someone woke him up and settled him down.  That broke the spell.  Everyone russled and yawned and went back to sleep without any snoring. 
People tend to get up early and get on with the day but we decided to be last out so we could sort ourselves out comfortably.  After the toe routine and breakfast it was 8am before we got started.  A bit late really but being as we were only doing 20km today and we had a booking we didn't think we needed to rush.  It was still a tough 20km but we arrived at a nice albergue and we have our own room tonight.  Unfortunatley I just saw last nights snorer arrive and I hopenhe isn't in the next room.
We have met so many fantastic people and we arereally enjoying the experience.
Tomorrow we will do about 16km and give ourselves a little rest.   Fuzz is really struggling with his feet and it is taking longer and longer each day to sort them out before we get stared.  Looking forward to an easier day.

Burgos to Hontanas

32km today.  Up and down.  Scenery mostly hay fields. 
We arrived in town and everywhere was full so we are staying at the municipal albergue.  21 beds in one room.
We are really part of the Camino now and feeling it.  Age is no barrier here as we are all on the same journey and inspiring each other.  We have been bouyed by todays experiences.  Wow, w nave arrivec!!!

Ages (or somewhere near) to Borgos

We had to walk an extra 8km today 2km of which we already walked yesteday but it wasn't so bad.  It just ment that our easy day turned into another 30+km day.  But we arrived in Burgos with some interesting people and chatting to them helped pass the time.  We are on the far outskirts of the city so we get a little headstart tomorrow.
Burgos is a lovely city with a river that runs through it and parkland all along the river.  There were so many people out enjoying the nice weather and making the most of the pathway that runs for klms along the river bank.  We made ourselves walk back to town and visit the cathedral, EL Cid is buried there and we will hit the history books just as soon as we have the energy to find outmore about that, or see if we can find the old Charlton Heston Movie....
The problem with this walk is having the energy to sightsee as well as complete the journey.  We are doing our best to fit in what we can and fortunatley quite a few of the towns really are one horse towns with not much to see anyway so that is why we made the most of today and some days we aren't missing anything at all.
Tonight we are staying at a University.  We have a room to ourselves and our own bathroom.  Fantastic.  We are not sure what is going to happen tomorrow.  We were talking to someone tonight who told us that there are at least 20 people withoutb  beds tonight.  Accomodation is at a premium this time on the Camino.
We have another long one tomorrow 31km.  We are trying to get away from the guidebooks recommendations as everyone else seems to following it.  We are hoping that by doing the extra kms tomorrow we will get out of sync and the town we are going to seems to have more Alburgues so we might have more luck.    Having said that we have come unstuck with this idea already so we will see what happens.  Finding accomodation each day has become our main priority each day.  After our toe taping ritual each day that is.
We are a third into our journey now having covered roughly about 250km.

Belardo via (Darwin)

Well, what a long way.  We set out this morning nice and early because we had a reservation that we were eager not to lose and we had to be in a town called Ages before 2pm. (Which is ahead of the guide book.  As accomodation is a premium it is a good idea to get out of sync with the book).  A 30km hike so we gunned it.  Through more wheat fields for the first 12km which led into a a lovely forest which had ferns and lovely little forest flowers.  We were flying.  We eventually arrived at our reserved Albergue and after having our passports taken and our shoes confiscated we were advised that they had doubled booked and we were to move on.  I wondered if our shoes were more offensive than the other sole pilgrim there but it turns out that as we  were  two people together he needed the rooms.  So he booked us into a hotel in the next town (we believed) and he even said he would take our bags there for us.  He didn't need to even try to understand my Spanish as I am sure the look on my face left him with no doubt that I wouldn't trust him to deliver a letter let alone my bag.  So we donned packpacks and set of at a temporous (invented word meaning I  was in a temper) pace to the next one horse town.  We couldn't find this hotel so I stopped a nice man and asked him where it was.  "No, not near here (but in Spanish)  was the answer.  Again no need to try to understand my Spanish.  He kindly offered to drive us.  So we have arrived once again at a truck stop 6 km off the track.  So tomorrow we will not only have to walk 6km back to the first one horse town we will also walk 2.5km that we have already walked trying to find the truck stop.  So I am feeling like a very cheated little pilgrim at the moment and the language that has been used by me this afternoon has left me wondering if I will be allowed into the next church we find.
Give  me strength!!!!! Friday the 13th.....what would you expect???

Santo Domingo to Belorado

We had ago good sleep last night after the nuns tucked us up in bed and we headed off on a rather cold morning towards  Belorado  the walk today was 23km of just wheat field after wheat field.  The grape vines of the past few days have given way to the odd field of sunflowers which some very clever people have picked about with and made them look like they have faces.  Very funny.
We found a rather classy restaurant at lunch time and went inside but the cranky owner doesn't think much about pilgrims.  Anyway he let us in and we finally had hot vegetables for the first time in almost two weeks.  Not a cheap meal but it was really nice.  Worth every euro.  If you're not gluten intolerant when you arrive in Spain there is a good chance you will be when you leave.  Bread! bread and more bread.  I am going to have a no bread challenge tomorrow. 

Najera to Santo Domingo de la Cazada

21km Rolling hills and not too bad underfoot but a good 'boot day' after yesterday anyway.

Today was a pleasant walk in the countryside with a little climb and rolling hills.  We passed more grape vines and today we saw  lots of wheat fields but that was about the extent of the scenery.  A day for silent reflection it would seem......we don't get too many of those in the 'real world' and we enjoyed today.

We prebooked our accomodation for tonight as it is gettig harder and harder to get into places as the Camino is particularly busy at the moment.  We are in an old peoples home (I think) run by the nuns who are lovely and very helpful and I can't now understand why they  were so scary when I was a kid.  Anyway our zimmer frames are parked outside our room and they will be round shortly to check if we have managed to use the bathroom.....they are so helpful.

Ps.  The Spanish equivalent of the 'Tour de France'  came right past our old peoples home tonight.  Almost too much excitment.